Interview with the Chef

Local, Seasonal what does that mean?
Local, Seasonal is really a philosophy that drives our cuisine. We buy as much product as we can that is locally produced. It is great to be directly connected as a chef with growers, farmers, and ranchers which translates to receiving superior product. I strongly believe in advancing the food culture in this country and to those means we buy great seasonal domestic product as well. For example wild foraged mushrooms from Oregon, or fresh wild berries from California. Philosophy and beliefs aside, we really are just trying to deliver the best product available to the plate, which in turn should mean delicious food.

How important is that the products you use are organic?
It is important to me that products we use are produced naturally by consciously minded farmers, ranchers and other food artisans. To me knowing the producer is more valuable then an organic stamp. While some of the food we buy is certified organic, certification is a costly investment that many small farmers cannot afford. However this doesn’t mean the principles behind organic food are not important. I have confidence that the farmers and producers we work with are guided by principles of sustainability, and quality that exceed requirements of organic food.

 What criteria do you use for product that is not from the immediate area?
We do use meats, fish, some produce, and cheeses not from Arizona. First and foremost we use any and all quality product produced in Arizona. Beyond that though I feel there are great domestic food products available that truly make our American cuisine special. Our great wild foraged mushrooms, berries, and spring ramps of the Pacific Northwest. Superior and original domestic cheeses produced on small farms all over the country. Sustainable fisheries from Hawaii to Alaska out to the waters of New England and down to Florida. In addition we have Pork and Poultry from great small farmers and ranchers raised on farms across the country. These ingredients enrich the wonderful sources we use in Arizona, and connect our restaurant to some of the excellent producers and culinary artisans of America.

Fish and proteins?
It is important we know the source of every ingredient on our menu. To that end knowing the source means knowing the food, where it came from, how it was raised, and how it was handled. We only purchase meats that come from sustainable farms, using humane farming practices that raise animals naturally. We purchase whenever possible our meats whole. Hogs and Lambs are always purchased whole. This allows us to effectively use the entire animal, and ensure nothing is wasted.

We are concerned about the health and vitality of our oceans and believe restaurants are on the front lines towards sustaining sealife and seafood for generations to come. We are proud to have joined Seafood Choices Alliance, and choose to purchase fish only from sustainable fisheries. We fly our fish in overnight and butcher whole fish in house to ensure that our seafood not only is sustainable but extremely fresh. As a displaced New Englander I truly pride myself on ensuring the Seafood we serve is the freshest and best it can possibly be.

How does the local Farmer’s market assist you in your search for the best ingredients?
The growing Downtown Phoenix Farmer’s market has been a great aid, in finding local producers and products in Arizona. We visit it every Saturday to purchase produce, cheese, and sometimes eggs. The passion growers have for their product is infectious and is the type of connection to food that is impossible to get through a distributor or wholesale company. The love put into these ingredients from start to finish on the dinner plate, I believe can be tasted in the food. We genuinely care about what we are doing.

What ingredients do you use from Maya’s garden?
What we use from Maya’s garden changes with the seasons, I am proud to say though whatever she grows we use one way or another. Maya is a driven, hard working farmer, we are so happy to have her produce as an integral part of our cuisine. The flexibility we have with the menu (changing daily) allows us to truly adapt our cuisine to the available ingredients. Every morning writing the menu is simply an exercise of trying to express our ingredients the best way we can on a plate.

Eggs also?
Yes we are very lucky to be able to get true Farm Fresh Eggs, from Maya’s beautiful naturally raised chickens.

Do you use other local growers?
Yes, Bob McClendon is another local grower that is extremely important to us. He is an exceptionally talented farmer, and his excellent product makes our job easier. One Windmill Farms also provides us with a great deal of our “staple” items, Potatoes, Onions, Celery, and Carrots. We are very pleased to be connected with them as well.

Can you name some of the other local products you use?
Sure, we use beef from Power Ranches in San Simon Arizona. Lamb from a wonderful lady on Vineyard Road in Phoenix. Goat Cheese, from Black Mesa Ranch in Snowflake, Arizona. Farmer’s Cheese from the ladies at Rainbow Valley in Maricopa. Pecans, and Walnuts from Fort Bowie Vineyards in Bowie Arizona. Olive Oil, and Pistachios from Queen Creek Olive Mill. Tepary Beans from Mike Sheedy at the University of Arizona. Peaches from Schnepf Farms. Apples from Briggs and Eggers Orchards. Brad Payne, the “Arizona Herdsman” rounds up local produce from small family producers, and from Freeman Farms.  Jams and Preserves from Aravaipa Farms. Honey from McClendon and other area producers. The list is always growing and includes many special one time items. The great thing is when customers now approach us and offer some of their citrus crop, or cherry tomatoes, etc. that adds to and enriches our cuisine, and our restaurant.

You mention classic culinary technique and tradition what does that look like in the kitchen?
What is means for us in the kitchen is not ever compromising quality for speed, convenience or volume. How we cook is not new rather it is rooted in tradition. True culinary craftsmanship is lost when restaurants seek larger volume and larger profit margins. We are genuinely attempting to reverse this mentality at Quiessence. We make pasta by hand, butcher our own animals and fish, buy whole unprocessed vegetables, make salumi, pate, and charcuterie in house. By taking no shortcuts we are safeguarding the integrity of the food. It causes us to work harder and can cause food to take longer then many guests are used to but it’s the end result, the finished plate we are after.

What is the criteria for selecting an ingredient for the restaurant?
The menu changes constantly and we buy what is best on the market on any given day. I have a working trust with my purveyors that is extremely important. It’s vital I have eyes and ears outside the kitchen. Therefore when I hear, Salmon coming out of the Copper River in Alaska, is fantastic, fatty, “the best we’ve seen all season” you can bet you’ll see salmon on the menu tomorrow. When Maya calls me and tells me she just picked up some great pears or peaches from Aravaipa Farms, suddenly our menu will be filled with the sweet ripe fruit. It’s an important ideal as our cuisine is driven by superior ingredients.

Your menu is coursed out, Do most of your guests enjoy a four course meal?
The structure of our menu is truly Italian inspired. We offer “Beginnings” our form of Antipasti, where we feature Charcuterie, Salami, Pates, Garden Fresh Salads, and Crudités. Next our “First Plate” section of the menu always features fresh pastas, a house made soup, and shellfish. “Second Plates” encompass what most would call entrees these are meat and fish dishes. We also offer a selection of domestic artisan and farmstead cheeses. We encourage our guests to try a four course meal, even if that means sharing a plate of pasta, or splitting a plate of charcuterie. We enjoy giving our guests an excuse to linger a little longer and spend a bit more time with us down at the farm.  

The charcuterie plate has become a signature dish, always changing, can you tell us about that?
We’re always excited and pleased when a guest tries our charcuterie plate. Our Charcuterie and Salumi program grew out of our desire to use every bit of the animals we were purchasing. Also my sous chef Tony and I have a personal affinity for salumi, sausages, and charcuterie. The ancient art of salting, curing, and drying meats and fish is instinctually satisfying as a chef. I truly believe this dish is one of the most important dishes we make. It’s a fulfillment towards a promise of sustainability and it’s a nod to classic culinary tradition. We pride ourselves on this dish and we’re proud to have guests eager to enjoy it.

Your sous chef Anthony Andiario is passionate about pastas, what is his backoground and where does the passion come from?
I think in large part why Anthony and I work so well together is our similar beliefs about food and taste. We both love simple food and pasta is one of the simplest. The marriage of flour and water creates one of the most soul satisfying dishes. Anthony comes from a strong Italian background and similar to me grew up with pasta as a large part of his diet. Anthony believes however pasta is no longer a passion for him but an obsession. He is driven to create the best pasta he possibly can. It’s been exciting to watch him transform into what I believe is a world class pasta maker, who can undoubtedly make pasta on par with anything you’ll find in Italy.

Dustin Christofolo is responsible for your interesting wine list, how do you two work together to select wines that pairs well with the food?
Dustin has a great palate and has been able to bring a new level to our food with his wine pairings. Dustin is so down to earth about wine and approaches food and wine pairing with such an unpretentious attitude. He always lets the food shine through using wine to enhance the food on the plate. It’s a happy ideal which is well executed here.

Tell us about the Brick oven table? What an experience that must be!
The brick oven table was truly born out of an experience formerly reserved for other chefs or family members. Essentially when a fellow chef or family member would come in we’d forgo the formality of a menu and simply cook for them. It became clear though that perhaps we could translate this experience to our other guests and thus the brick oven table was born. Essentially you’re being cooked for by myself and my sous chef, a multi course dinner. You have no menu so you’re in our hands! This is especially fun for us, and we believe a real treat for the guests.

And the desserts oh so yummy!
Our desserts like the rest of the menu are driven by simplicity, taste, and flavor. The principle doesn’t change; our desserts are made fresh every day in house. We enjoy warm comforting flavors that leave our guests with a good feeling at the end of the evening.